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British love-hate relationship with Indian Spices

During Raj, the British had a 'love and hate' relationship with Indian spices. In early 1960s, during my stay in UK and USA, I finally learned the cause for this 'love and hate' relationship. British food was bland. They loved it being spiced up by local cooks but not always. British loved Ginger, Turmeric, Tamarind, Mustard seeds, and Cayenne peppers. They hated the smell of frying Cumin seeds, Ajwain seeds. Some of the British and could not stand the fresh Cilantro. Americans familiar with southwest cooking are more tolerant to Cilantro. British and Americans compare rose-water and screw-pine (Kewra) to 'eating flowers'. On the other hand Nutmeg, Cinnamon, and Cardamom are acceptable aromatic spices. In American cooking, these three spices are the heart of pumpkin pie. Saffron is delicate aromatic spice and acceptable to everyone.

 

Turmeric

British loved the Turmeric. It has to do with color, and its very mild aroma. For all practical purposes, the addition of Turmeric made it seem like Sahib was actually having a mild curry. Examples are Piccalilli, Kedgeree, Cabbage.

 

Tamarind

Vinegar, and Apple acid were the only known sour taste to British from their homeland. In India, palm and cane vinegars were available and used as medicine. Besides vinegars, British were exposed to two more new sour tastes: Tamarind and Amchoor (Dried raw mango powder). Amchoor was not sharp enough or predictable. They loved the Tamarind. I believe that Lord Marcus Sandys actually loved the taste of Tamarind, giving rise to the creation of Worcestershire sauce. Did Worcestershire sauce originate in India?

 

Tadka, Cumin, Carom

The western nose hates the smell of frying Cumin or Ajwain (Carom). The landlords in UK and USA heard the neighbors of complaining about the nauseous smell coming from Indian apartments cooking curries. Many neighbors found the smell so offensive that they would simply move out. Whenever, an Indian would prepare the Cumin Seed Tadka for Dal, he would hear a loud thumping noise on the adjoining wall of the next door apartment or an abusive phone call. It is also true about Ajwain when making Poori or Kachori.

It does not mean that British hated the idea of Tadka. The Khansama would always caramelize thinly sliced onions in Ghee or a combination of Peanut oil and Butter. The caramelized onions were added as a topping to almost any Curry.

If you are cooking at home and inviting American guests, use Thyme in place of  Ajwain, Thyme is milder with similar taste. Replace Cumin seeds with ground Cumin powder and minimize frying. Minimize use of fresh cilantro. You may think of substituting Cilantro with Parsley.

 

Mustard

The British loved the heat added by the ground Black mustard seeds.

 

Cayenne Pepper

I have met many British, and American who can out-eat any Indian in terms of the Cayenne peppers (Red, as well as fresh Green).  The problem is not with the heat in cayenne peppers, but when the cayenne peppers are mixed with other spices. The best example of their love for Cayenne pepper and Tamarind is Mulligatawny Soup (Kitchiner) Recipe.

 

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