What is North Indian Cuisine? Mughalai-Cuisine

Modern North Indian Cuisine is rooted in Persia. Hindu and Moslem cooks adopted Persian dishes to local cooking for the Moghul emperor Akbar, his courtier and queens. Rajputs cooks created dishes to please the queen Jodha Bai mother of Jahangir (next emperor of India). This was the birth of Mughalai Cuisine What is Mughalai Cuisine?.

Ain-I-Akbar gives us a documented glimpse in to the Royal kitchen of Akbar India Historical Recipes (Akbar period). North Indian Cuisine can be divided into 7 groups based on regions. Influence of Mughalai cooking diminishes as we approach the southern border (Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh). I have included Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh for contrast and comparison.

- Jammu and Kashmir,

- Himachal Pradesh

- Uttar Pradesh, Uttarkhand

- Punjab, Haryana, Chandigarh

- Delhi

- Rajasthan

- Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh

In addition, we have street foods associated with Khomche-walallah (street vendors)

Influence of Religion on North Indian Cuisine

Onions Garlic Asafetida

In general Brahmins and Baniyas don't eat onions or garlic, they use Asafetida instead. Most of the Moslems eat onions and garlic, and shun Asafetida. Punjabi Hindus and Sikhs eat onions and garlic.

In North India, Rajasthan has a large population of Jains. Jains shun all root vegetables: onions, garlic, potatoes, carrots, beets etc. Jains also avoid Honey and Figs. They do use Asafetida.

Meats Fish Eggs

In North India, eggs and fish are treated just like meat. Indian vegetarians are lacto-vegetarians not Vegan, they readily eat dairy products such as Dahi, milk, Butter, and Ghee.

Who eats meat? This is not a simple question. It depends on religion gender and geography.

- Christians eat meat

- Jews eat meat as long as it is Kosher

- Moslems eat meat as long as it is Halal

- Sikhs, eating meat is optional but must be slaughtered as Jhatka. Most of the Sikh women choose not to eat meat.

- Jains are vegetarians

- Hindu, it varies from region to region and cast to cast. Kashmiri Pandit Brahmins eat meat. In Rajasthan, lower class (untouchable) Hindu males are non-vegetarians, but women are vegetarians. In Punjab Khatri males may eat meat, but women are vegetarians. In Himachal Pradesh most are non-vegetarians. In Uttar Pradesh, most of the Hindus are vegetarians. In Rajasthan Brahmins, and Baniyas are vegetarians.

- In North India, beef and pork are not readily available. Most common meats are Chicken, goat, sheep, buffalo, venison, and fish.

Jammu and Kashmir

Three successive Moghul emperors (Akbar, Jahangir, Shahjahan) influenced Kashmir Cuisine and vice versa. Kashmir was annexed by Akbar in 1586 and became a favorite holiday place for Jahangir. The Mughalai dishes were modified and cooked with yogurt or milk; using locally grown spices: Shahi Jeera (Black cumin), Fennel, Ginger. Saffron was added for aroma and color. Degi Mirch, Ratan Jot, and Maval petals were used to add red color. Excellent varieties of rice are grown, making Kashmir to be an exceptionally large consumer of rice in North India. The signature dishes are: Rogan Josh, Tabak Maaz, Yakhni, Gustaba, Dum Aloo, and Haak Saag. Kahava is a popular green tea beverage.

Uttar Pradesh and Uttarkhand

Agra, and Fatehpur Sikri were seat of Mughal empire. At the end of Mughal empire, Uttar Pradesh would become independent state run by a series of Nawabs. The kitchens of various Nawabs would transform the Mughalai Cuisine in to Awadh cooking. The Dum Pukht Cooking from Akbar and Shahjahan period will be revived to a new level. The Pulao would become layered Biryani. The meats are marinated to create tender Kebab for aging toothless Nawab. Wheat is the common grain used to make breads. The signature dishes are Shami Kebab, Awadh Biryani, Aloo Kachori, Moong Dal Halwa, Benaras Chaat, Jalebi and Dahi breakfast Signature dishes in Uttarkhand are: Aloo Gutke, Kaapa, Jhangora kheer, Chainsoo

Punjab Haryana Chandigarh

Punjab is the farming life of India with plenty of dairy products. Dairy products such as Dahi (Yogurt), Chach (Skimmed natural buttermilk). Lassi (whipped yogurt) are common. Combination meals are common: 'Makki Roti and Sarson Saag', 'Cholay and Bhatura', 'Rajma and Chawal', 'Aloo Pratha and Dahi', 'Poori and Aloo Gobhi', 'Makhni Dal and Tandoori Roti'. Tandoor is not installed in every house, but you always find a Tandoor in every community, where you bring your own dough to bake Tandoori Roti, or get Eggplant roasted to make Bangen Bharta.. Unique desserts include Pinni, and Panjiri. All Gurudwara serve Sooji Halwa (Parsad). The Amritsar Machhli, a street food is popular. In Haryana, you will find Kachri Subzi, Cholia, Chach (Matha), Lassi, Bajra Khichri

Delhi

Delhi is the restaurant capital of India and represents modern day North Indian Cooking. Delhi was a Shahjahan city. Lahore was Jahangir city. Both evolved their own versions of Moghul Cuisine. After partition (1947) Punjabi Hindus would migrate to Delhi fusing these two Cuisines.

During Shahjahan period, Tandoor had become common appliance in Lahore and Peshawar to make Roti, bake large pieces of lamb, whole Chooza (Squab chicks), and Kebabs.

Moti Mahal Restaurant would install the first indoor Tandoor at Daryaganj in old Delhi. Gaylord would soon follow the suit. Naan and Tandoori chicken will become the most popular items. Moti Mahal will add a lot of Makhan to tomato based chicken curry, creating the modern Makhani (Buttery) dishes.

At the outset, Dhaba (small Punjabi restaurants) would open near Bus, Taxi and Scooter stands. Dhaba would cater to Punjabi drivers and serve Tandoori Roti, Mah ki Dal, Mutton curry. Pretty soon, they would sprout all over Delhi.

Jama Masjid is known for its Seekh Kebab, Haleem, and Korma. Nihari (or Nahiri) may be the oldest spicy hot (red chili peppers) Mutton stew served in Delhi.

Chandani Chowk is the oldest commercial district in Delhi. 'Ghantewala' was built in 1790, a favorite sweets shop of Emperor Bahadur Shah. At Ghantewala, you can find Mishri Mewa, Sohan Halwa, Motichoor Laddu, Jalebi, and Makhan Choora.

Descendents of cooks from the royal kitchen of Shahjahan own the restaurant and make items served at the imperial court: Mutton Korma, Chicken Korma, Mutton Pasanda.
A street of this district called Paratha Gali has been serving Mughalai Paratha for centuries. The Pratha are stuffed with eggs, mutton Keema, and chicken. You can buy spices from anywhere in India at Khari Bawali, an extension of Chandani Chowk. Chaat, Dahi Bhalla, Goal Guppa, Juice bars are served out of stalls near every corner. During summer, Kulfi, Falooda, Thandai are served.

Rajasthan

Lack of water, had the major influence on the cuisine. Wheat and Millet (Jowar and Bajra) were common flours to make bread. Fresh vegetables were scarce. When the vegetables were available, they were sun-dried to keep them available for special occasions. Dried beans (Urad and Chana) were used to make Dal. Besan (Chickpea flour) was used to form noodles to make curries (Gatta), salty snacks (Sev) and sweets (Burfee, Laddu)

Chach (butter milk) was used for cooking. Meats are cooked in Ghee (Jungli Maas) and mustard oils. Khoya has higher shelf-life than Malai, Milk, or Yogurt. So Khoya was added to make Korma and desserts. Ghee, Mustard oil and Cotton seed oil (Binola Tel) are used for cooking.

Signature dishes are: Dal Baati Choorma, Ker-Sangari, Lal Maas, Gatta, Piyaz Kachori, Ghewar, Kalakand. Bhang is available at state stores. You might be able to find Ganja and even Afeem.

After partition, Hindus and Sikhs migrated from Pakistan to Rajasthan. The number of refugees were limited, consisting primarily of farmers. They would not over-influence the cuisine as they did in Delhi. In Bharatpur district, they introduced tomatoes and other 'new vegetables'.

Himachal Pradesh

This is a steep hilly region. Vegetables are short in supply except for potatoes and turnips. Buckwheat, corn, barley, and wheat are commonly used too make breads. Himachal Pradesh is known for growing Apples in India. The signature dishes include legumes cooked over low heat for extended period, Sidu, Aktori and Dham.

Madhya Pradesh, Chhattisgarh

Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh basically close the southern border of North India. Signature dishes of Madhya Pradesh are: Lapsi, Bafla, Bhutte Kheer, Bhopal Kebab

Eastern part of Madhya Pradesh (Chhattisgarh) is known for Bafauri, Kusli, Red ant chutney The interesting dish is red ant chutney made famous by chef Ramsey. He actually participated in gathering red ants and their eggs.

Khomche-walallah (street vendors)

You will find Khomche-walallah near Railway stations, Bus-stations, out-side movie halls, and near college campuses. In Delhi, you can hear the 'traveling Khomche-walallah' in all the neighborhoods during noon-time.

Snacks: Chaat, Cholay Bhatura Kulcha, Roasted peanuts, Cholay Garam, Aloo Tikki, Roasted or boiled Corn on the cob, Rajmah Chawal, Pakora

Beverages: Garam Masala Chai, Thandai

Sweets: Kulfi, Rasmalai, Chum chum, Rasgulla, Rebri, Gajak

Fruit Chaat (Guava, Banana, Jamun, Phalsa), Ganderi (Peeled and diced Sugar-canes)

Unfortunately, 'traveling Khomche-walallah' are a disappearing breed.

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